Home > MR2 - SW20 > MR2 SW20 Technical Information

MR2 SW20 Technical Information

Technical Information of MR2 SW20 models.

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Overview:

The second generation MR2 went through a complete redesign in 1989; the wheelbase had been increased by 3.2 inches (94.5 inches), the overall length had been increased by 9.3 inches (164.2 inches) and was 66.9 inches wide. The new MR2 weighed 350 to 400 pounds (2650-2789 pounds) more than its predecessor and had smoother bodylines. The new styling resembled that of a Ferrari (348 and F355) rather than a “space wedge”.

The differences between the AW11 and the SW20 are easy to see. The AW11 was a much smaller and lighter car. Many people regard the AW11 as a much better drivers car because of it’s light weight and agility. The SW2o is arguably a much more beautiful car inside and out. The interior styling is still not outdated and is quite functional. The SW2o was designed to be a bit more comfortable and to fit into the GT (Gran Turismo) class.

A lot of people argue that Toyota “ripped” off Ferrari when they designed the MKII (SW20) MR2. However the concept design was released before the Ferrari 348 or the F355 were released. Many people still refer to this car as the poor man’s Ferrari. There are many kits you can buy to convert an SW20 MR2 into a Ferrari F355 Replica. There are many MR2 Body Kits and some are better than others but I personally wouldn’t waste my time and money to make a car heavier.

The MR2 is one of the last true affordable Mid-Engine Rear Wheel Drive sports cars you can buy.

________________

Model Differences:

There were two different models offered for the MKII (SW20) lineup here in the US.

  • MR2 NA (Naturally Aspirated) – 2.2 L I4 (5S-FE) making 130 bhp, 145 ft-lb (91-92) and 135 bhp, 145 ft-lb (93-95)
  • MR2 Turbo (aka GT/GT-S) – 2.0 L I4 (3S-GTE) making 200 bhp, 200 ft-lb (91-95)

There were a few other models offered in Europe and Asia:

  • MR2 NA (Naturally Aspirated) – 2.0 L I4 (3S-GE) making 150 – 177 bhp, 129 – 137 ft-lb (90-90)
  • MR2 BEAMS (G/G-Limited) – 2.0 L I4 (3S-GE BEAMS) making 197 bhp, 137 ft-lb (I believe)
  • MR2 Turbo (GT/GT-S) – 2.0 L I4 (3S-GT 3rd Gen) making 242 bhp (95-99)

There were several options for roofs on the SW20. There was the base model Hard Top (see picture) which has become extremely rare. This model is often the choice for auto crossers and track racers because of it’s reduced weight up top and slightly more rigidity frame. The weight saved up top by having a hard top vs. a sunroof or t-tops is around 25 lbs. Reducing weight from the top of the car is beneficial to the car’s handling because it lowers the center of gravity. The Sunroof (see picture) was a popular option. It had the ability to raise up as a vent or be removed completely and stored in the Frunk or Trunk. The T-Tops (see picture) are the most common models to find. The two tops are removable and can be stored behind the seats. The t-top MR2’s are notorious for leaking when it rains or when you wash the car. This can sometime be fixed by replacing the eccentric rod guides. However most of the time a complete fix require new weather stripping which can be quite expensive. There are temporary fixes that can be found in my DIY Section. There have been a few companies that have made fiberglass and carbon fiber t-tops to help reduce weight, however none are in production currently that fit well. The last roof option was never offered here in the states. That is the rare factory Spyder (see picture) trim. There are very few around but you may see pictures of them from time to time.

There are many visual differences between the MR2 NA and MR2 Turbo models. The turbo models came with the “turbo” emblem in the US on the rear trunk, a fiberglass engine bonnet with “raised” vents (see picture), fog lights (see picture), and an added interior center storage compartment located between the two seats which is often referred to as a CD box (see picture). The turbo also had larger exhaust pipes. This difference is probably one of the least noticeable. All MKII’s came with a staggered wheel setup, which was slightly wider in the rear. The NA and Turbo models shared the same wheels and stagger from 91-92 (14×6 and 14×7) with 195/60/14 tires up front and 205/60/14 tires in the rear. In 1993 the wheels grew in size to 15 inches in diameter (see picture). The new stagger was now 15×6 in front and 15×7 in the rear with 195/55/15 tires up front and 225/50/15 tires in the rear. The larger stagger was implemented to help reduce oversteer (I will comment on later). The turbo models also received seats with lumbar support, adjustable side bolsters, and adjustable head rests (see picture). In the U.S. there are two different chassis codes, SW21 for the MR2 NA model and SW22 for the MR2 Turbo model, as opposed to the usual SW20 reference.

Once you look in the engine bay the differences are quite clear (see picture). Here are examples of 4 different MR2 Motors. The turbo motor is easy to spot. You can see the intercooler piping and the turbo plate on the intake. The BEAMS motor is fairly rare here in the US but you may see one from time to time. Easy to spot because of the big BEAMS writing on it and the design of the intake. The regular NA motor looks pretty plan and you can see the 2200 CC sticker on it indicating the 5S displacement. The last is the V6 swap. Becoming more and more common you will start to see these more and more. The engine looks like it belongs there.

The turbo motors also came with a stock rear x-strut brace as  you can see in the picture. The NA did not come with a stock rear strut brace. TRD makes an after market one that is incredibly strong. You can see it in the NA engine bay picture.

Other differences include the size of the sway bars. The NA ones can vary in size depend on the year and trim but they are generally between 16-18mm. The Turbo sways are 19mm front and back. TRD, ST, and Tanabe as well as some other tuner companies make after market sway bars for the MR2 ranging from 19-22 mm in diameter. The TRD sway bars are hollow reducing weight while the ST bars are solid. The brakes are also different on turbo models. NA models had the same brakes from 91-95. The turbo models had two piston calipers up front with single piston calipers that were shared with the NA’s from 91-92.

Other mechanical differences between the NA and Turbo models include, but are not limited to: Turbo model received an intercooler, a different exhaust system (2.5 in.), a more powerful fuel pump, a larger radiator, larger rear axles which also required different hubs, and a different transmission (E153) vs the NA (S54) transmission. The Turbo transmission (E153) was immensely stronger than the NA’s transmission (S54). The Turbo transmission has been known  to hold up to over 350 bhp and 350 ft-lb. The NA transmission can hold around 200-250 bhp but have been known to fail around the 200-250 ft-lb mark. This strength does translate to more weight. Axles included the Turbo transmission (E153) weighs around 50 lbs more than the NA transmission (S54). The gear ratios on the two transmission were different as well (see chart). As  you can see, the NA transmission has shorter gear ratio to allow it to have decent acceleration with less power. The Turbo transmission’s longer gear ratios allowed it to take advantage of it’s more narrow power band. The turbo transmission does yield lower RPM’s at cruising (freeway) speeds than the NA transmission.

A few extra tidbits about the two engines available in the MR2 here in the US. The 5S-FE was called a DOHC (Dual Over Head Cam) motor. However, it shared the twin cam design the all other “FE” Toyota motors share. Twin Cam means there are two separate camshafts that control the valves, but they are only driven by one of the camshafts. The camshafts are connected via gears attached to the camshafts themselves. The Turbo motor 3S-GTE was a true DOHC motor. Both Camshafts were driven by their own gears off the timing belt. All Toyota “GE” motors share this design.

My advice: If you want a sports car type motor you need to get a 3S-GE or 3S-STE depending on your application. The 5S-FE is in all reality a Camry motor which should never been put in a sports car.

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Year to Year Changes:

For 1993 models Toyota changed the rear suspension geometry for both the NA and Turbo models. The rear toe rods (that control the toe-in of the rear tires) were lengthened by around 6 inches, and the inner pivot point for the toe rod was relocated on the cross-member (see picture). The front suspension geometry very little. The control-arm/strut rod design eliminated caster adjustments. Springs that lowered the ride height at both the front and rear were installed, and the anti-roll/anti-sway bars were increased in diameter (Turbo model only?). The wheels were changed from 14″ diameter to 15″ diameter wheel. The increase in size was mainly to accommodate larger brakes on the Turbo model but all models were fitted with the new wheels. The tire sizes were increased in width at both the front and rear on both the NA and Turbo models.

“These changes to the suspension geometry and tire sizes were made in response to journalist reports in their reviews of the MR2 that the car would ‘snap-oversteer’. As a counterpoint to the snap-oversteer phenomenon of the MR2, other journalists point out that most mid-engine and rear engine sports and super cars exhibit similar behaviour, and that a change to the driver’s response to oversteer is really the problem, and not the fault of the car. A suspension issue Toyota did decide to address was the dramatic toe’ing out of the rear suspension under certain conditions, mainly lift-throttle under aggressive cornering. In any car, braking shifts the weight forward, and acceleration to the rear. Because of the MR2’s exceptional ability to accelerate out of corners due to its rear-drive, mid-engine arrangement, many drivers would apply the throttle too aggressively, too early, gaining too much speed, and inevitably lifting the throttle. This lifting would shift the weight forward while causing the rear suspension to toe-out–the recipe for non-power-on oversteer, or even a spin.” – Wikipedia (MR2 page)

Turbo models received upgraded two piston calipers up front with larger rotors and larger single piston calipers in the rear with larger rotors compared to the NA models. This is a popular upgrade for a couple reasons. It is relatively inexpensive compared to other after market big brake kits and larger big break kits are arguably less helpful in improving stopping power (see Big Break Theory article).

Other refinements in 1993 are a slightly revised electrical system. The speedometer became electronic instead of cable driven. A shorter shifter lever (see picture) and smaller shifter knob were also installed and are a popular upgrade for 91-92 MR2 owners. For the 3S-GTE the boost engine cut sensor was changed to allow for a maximum boost of 17-18 psi, where as the earlier switch that shut down the engine at over 12 psi boost (this can be overcome by simply disconnecting a vacuum line and plugging it). The 1993 model year also offered a Limited Slip Differential (40% lockup) as an option on Turbo models only. The transmission was changed internally with additional dual synchros on the lower gears which allows for smoother shifting on Turbo models. The front lip was also changed to a new shape that increased downforce at the front. The new design resembled more of a splitter (see picture).

The next big change occurred in the 1994 MR2 models when all MR2’s received new round tail lights also called “Kouki Lights” (see picture) and a color-coded center panel. The corner section of the tail lights in the US were red (see picture). However the JDM and Euro models received amber colored corner lights (see picture). The original three-piece rear spoiler was replaced with the one-piece spoiler which attached only to the trunk lid (see picture). The side molding and skirts were also color coded, and the “dot matrix” edge pattern on the glass was replaced with a solid pattern. The steering wheel was also replaced with a slightly smaller one that was shared across many Toyota models. A passenger side airbag was aslo added. The upholstery in the 94 model cars was also updated and has a different pattern than the 91-93 models. Also the front lip became color coded. One other modification that was done was rather subtle. Toyota upgraded the wiper arms from a screw on style to a hook system.

For JDM models in 1996, Toyota added turn signals mounted to the front fenders and the front signals were changed to a clear lens instead of amber like the previous years (see picture). The original side markers behind the turn indicators were removed and replaced with solid molding (see picture). These have become popular modifications made to USDM cars. The 1998 model, known as the “Revision 5″ model, came with more modern looking five spoke 15” Alloy Wheels and a 3 Way adjustable more aggressive Combat rear spoiler. The interior upgrades include: a instrument cluster with red rings, leather shift knob with red stitching and on the JDM Turbo Model Red Stitching on the Leather Seats.

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Common Modifications:

Modifications are not unusual. They include everything from Cold Air Intakes to Coilover Suspensions. Now I won’t get into the theory and practicality of all the upgrades that people do in this article but I will provide links to articles explaining the ups and downs of the different upgrades.

All upgrades are really dependent on what your goals are for the car and which car you have (turbo or NA).

The most popular upgrades usually start with the suspension since the MR2 is generally regarded as a sharp handling car. Also the stock 91-92 springs (which make up the majority of MR2’s in the US) make the MR2 look like a 4×4. Two options for lowering your car are Springs and Shocks or Coilovers. There are advantages to each however most people fail to address the worn parts of the suspension when upgrading. Let’s be honest, the majority of us have never driven an MR2 with a good condition suspension. I have replaced all the ball joints, tie rods, bushings, shocks, springs, sway bars, and end-links on a SW20 and it changes the way the car drives. Stock blow suspensions are far from ideal. If you want to take my advice…invest a little extra money in your suspension and wait on the exhaust and intake.

Now lets talk a little about speed. If you bought an NA it either because you wanted a light weight, nice handling canyon carver, or you couldn’t afford a turbo. If you bought a turbo it’s because you want a fast sports car and probably fancy boosting your way into oblivion. Whatever the case is…you work with what you’ve got. The most popular upgrades for NA’s engines are Cold Air Intakes (CAI), and Cat-back exhausts. Now lets talk about the reason behind this. I won’t talk about the benefits or lack there of regarding these upgrades. However I will say that if  your goal is to increase HP you will have success to the tune of maybe 5-10 BHP (whoop-di-doo). If you look at the cost of an Cat-Back (~$200-$500) and a CAI (~$50-$150) you have paid between $25/hp up to $100/hp. What kind of a difference will that make in real life? It’s pretty negligent in all reality. What I want everyone to understand is that if you have an NA MR2 with a 5S-FE it’s not going to be very fast without dumping a good amount of money into it. Now if you want something different and want to make a lot of work for yourself then go head and spend money on it. If you want to save yourself time and money simply do a Turbo or V6 swap which I’ll discuss later. CAI and Exhausts are good for making the MR2 sound better and look a little cooler, but in my opinion kind of a waste of money. Now Turbo MR2’s are a completely different animal. The HP potential of the 3S-GTE is amazing. Now the stock turbo (CT-26) is a piece of crap. Most turbo cars are limited by this initially. Even though the stock turbo is rather poor, it can still be helped by some simple upgrades. The easiest way to up your performance is with a boost controller. Next big upgrade would be a Down Pipe and full exhaust. A new intake might be next. After that you get into Turbo upgrades, upgraded intercooler, new injectors, stand alone, etc. I’ll explain more about those in other articles.

Now the MR2 has been blessed with aerodynamics about as good as a shoe. The car becomes rather unstable above 80 mph (I do not endorse doing this on public roads) because of the airflow under the car. The rear spoiler is actually functional however mildly. The drag coefficient is rather impressive but doesn’t really mean a lot to stability. Upgrading the front lip to a 93+ does assist some with the aerodynamics. Lowering the car can help as well, however most people won’t notice the short falls of the airflow. One of the biggest upgrades you can make to the aerodynamics are flat under body panels.

Brake upgrades are my favorite cause I think slowing down is more important that speeding up. Brakes can make you faster and you can read about that in the Big Brake article. Most popular upgrades are 91-92 Turbo calipers for the NA’s and 93+ turbo brakes for both turbo and NA MR2’s.

Wheels can be an upgrade. They can allow for bigger brakes and reduce rotating mass depending on the size. More details in why wheel tech article.

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Engine Swaps:

Engine Swaps are fairly common in the SW20 MR2’s. The engine bay can fit everything from a little 3S-GE to the hefty 5VZ V6 from a Tacoma. The most common swaps are simple 3S-GTE motor swaps which are pretty much plug and play. Other common swaps include 3VZ-FE V6’s as well as 1MZ-FE’s and now the powerful 2GR-FE motor.

Is it possible to fit other motors into the MR2? Yes of course…anything is possible with enough time and money. Is it practical…no. People frequently ask about putting 2JZ-GTE supra motors in the MR2. Simply won’t work without MAJOR work…and even then I’m not sure. I have seen someone put a 2JZ in the front of an MR2 but that kind defeats the purpose of having a mid engine car. The 2ZZ motor that is in the Celica GT-S and the Lotus Elise is a common motor to be asked about. This is a great motor to swap into the newer MR2 Spyder, and fairly straight forward. The SW20 on the other hand is just too heavy to really take advantage of this motor’s strong points.

I’ll talk a little about the benefits of the different motor swaps and will include some write ups on how to perform some of them in the future.

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Thanks For Reading!

Hope you found all this helpful!

Add Me On FACEBOOK! – Mark Dorman 

Check out my latest articles on LAcar.com

Categories: MR2 - SW20
  1. July 9, 2010 at 8:16 PM

    nice blog! Thanks for sharing!

    JC Nguyen
    officeblvd.com

  2. August 21, 2010 at 8:18 PM

    For the handling purists, with the strut suspension of the MR2, you get the best performance with 15″ wheels and standard springs and shock absorbers. Moving to larger wheels, lowering spring sets will compromise the handling of the car, unless other major work is undertaken. Or so from what I have heard.

  3. JYip
    September 7, 2010 at 11:49 PM

    Great article. I have been looking for one with comparison of all the MR2 revisions for a rather long time.

    Any one might know the suspension changes between the first version and the third revision? I heard there have been some geometry improvements made to the rear but can’t really find facts on it.

    Thanks.

    • December 21, 2010 at 1:52 AM

      From what I know the only revisions to the suspension came in 1994. I am unfamiliar with the post 96 models so I can’t say for sure.

  4. Fernando M. Sutil
    September 25, 2010 at 1:57 AM

    Good morning

    Need weather strips for Toyota mr2 sw20 1991 as I am busy rebuilding and re-sparaying.

    Please advise where can I purchase.

    Thank you

    Fernando M. Sutil
    Windhoek
    Namibia

    • December 21, 2010 at 1:48 AM

      I would contact Aaron at Lithia Toyota (Springfield, Oregon USA) for new parts. He gives the best deals. You can find them on the web by searching Lithia Toyota or find their link on MR2.com

  5. Joe Kirby
    September 29, 2010 at 1:50 AM

    THANK you Thank you about time somebody got the tiniest details of the true design of the Mr2 Sw20,Sw21 and Sw22..

    I actually owned all the different models including the hard top w/3rd Gen 3S-Gte.. I used a full Carbon kevlar underbody on 1of my Mr2s noticing a major difference including full Tein Ha ( revised model is the Tein Flex compatable w/EDFC electric dampaning Force Controller) I Believe thats what EDFC stands for.. Carbing 4point front stabilizer
    94+ pillow mount (Tein)
    Cusco 22mm front sway bar
    Cusco 22mm rear sway bar
    Costume made front Tie rods
    94+ rear crossmember but was up graded
    JIC rear traction rods
    Tein lower rod

    Body I choies was a widebody TRD kit (not molded cause of extra weight & needed it to be a break away setup..)Also all those kool Carbon fiber upgrades .. Hood, trunk, engine lid & a Sparco VTR fiber Glass bucket seat(Driver seat only.)

    The Mr2 major saftey was my Rollcage middle cluster (So no stereo, AC etc)
    Spacro VTR Fiber Glass FIA approved bucket seat, 3inch FIA 5point harness & all proper bulster upgrade.

    NO TINTED WINDOWS lol.. No need !

    How can I send pictures of my Mr2 and I love checking out everybodys Mr2.. Allows me to know that there’s a love & passion for these rare machines plus gain more info

    Upgrades, pin charts & blue prints if you have any…

  6. sytfu_ceez
    December 25, 2010 at 12:11 AM

    You can find the weather strips at http://www.twosrus.com the web site is run and opperated by the MR2 owners club. you can find everything for your SW20 on that site. OEM everything from floor rugs to switches.

  7. Brookes
    March 27, 2012 at 3:24 PM

    Absolutely cool page. I have an sw20 that I want to modify. Your web page is fantastic reading. Just one question. Do you know where I can buy a TRD gt2000 body kit from. Have been looking in the uk and can’t find one. Do you know who sells them in the states?
    Congratulations again on a fabulous site

    • April 30, 2012 at 8:35 AM

      Honestly I haven’t had a lot of great experiences with the WideBody Kits so I would hesitate to recommend a manufacturer I’ve seen make them. However it really depends how much work and money you want to put towards it. It takes a lot of work or money at the body shop to make the kit look good and fit correctly. Something to think about before committing to a project like that.

  8. Tree
    May 7, 2012 at 7:47 PM

    Fantastic article! You summed up quite a bit of information, it took me 1 year to gather this much info from forums, books etc but there are still things I didn’t know, such as the screw on type wipers for the later model, but more importantly aero. I have read that past 180km/h the SW20 is a handful to drive, but now I know the underbody is the reason why. Also an interesting comment by Myles about MacPh Struts and handling. I have 16″ with relatively stock tyre width and I’m thinking about Eibach pro kit + Koni Yellow/Tokico Illumina. I reckon it would handle like a dream.

    • Ash
      December 20, 2012 at 9:02 AM

      A bit late, but I went with the Koni yellow/ Eibach pro kit when I first got the car (1993 USDM Turbo w/ LSD) as the struts and springs were original and thus shot – I can attest that not only is the handling superb for the street, but ride comfort is not compromised either. I recently replaced all 4 ball joints, front tie rod ends and installed the Prothane full bushing kit. I was expecting that this would result in some loss of comfort, but not at all. It does indeed handle like a dream. I did a lot of research before choosing the Koni/Eibach combo, and would recommend it without reservation to any SW20 owner.

  9. Chris
    July 21, 2012 at 8:46 AM

    Read your entire article about the ups and downs of the mr2. I was wondering what u knew about the 1993 n/a mr2. I need a new 5 speed for it but don’t have the funding to do a crazy swap. I can’t find a reasonable price on one. However I have been able to locate a turbo transmission. Which I hear is better. Can I use this on my 2.2 n/a? Without changing axles / spindles? Any positive info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Chris cape cod mass

  10. February 27, 2013 at 6:49 PM

    I like your write ups man. You should continue to do them! Not sure why more guys from the mr2 forums havent checked in on this stuff!

  11. ant
    September 4, 2013 at 4:24 PM

    lots of info. thankx a lot

  12. Tim
    September 17, 2013 at 7:13 PM

    Hello and fantastic job writing the info you did!!
    I am new to the mr2 I just bought a 91 n/a which means I have the 5s-fe I have been chasing noises from muffler leak to inner fender flap to main bearing knock, finally fixing these noises and now cruising I really dont like the drone of the engine noise at 70 mph with a humming motor running @ 3300 rpm. I have been considering doing the 3vz-fe v6 swap for more power but with the tranny the way it is, would still be turning @ 3300 g’s, my question is the gear ratio on the 3s-gte is lower so I have questions about this,
    1) what is the rpm of E153 tranny @ 70 mpg
    2) Can a 3vz-fe swap fit to the tranny of either the s54 and E153?
    3) Main question is, can I swap my s54 with the E153 and shoe horn in the 3vz-fe? that way I get more power and lower engine noise, less rpm ultimatly also means less wear and tear, you might suggest just to put the 3s-gte turbo in but I really dont like the thought of potential problems and maintenance of the turbo
    Tim
    Tim

    • November 1, 2013 at 1:43 PM

      1) I forget the exact RPM’s of the E153 at 70mph. I think it is around 2600. There are calculators on some of the forums.
      2) Yes it will bolt up to either but there is one less bolt that matches up on the S54.
      3) Are you asking if you can swap out the S54 for the E153 on the 5S first, then do the V6 later? I would not advise that. I don’t suggest doing the turbo swap if you are not interested in it. However, a 3rd gen 3sgte is cheaper and easier swap than the V6 usually. Its faster, and you don’t have much maintenance to worry about since the motors are usually really low mileage.

  13. xnova5
    October 20, 2013 at 10:32 PM

    awesome work there is alot of good info, i would also love if you could provide some links as everything on the net is so scattered., i just got a 1991 mr2 turbo in immaculate condition and i hope to keep it that way.

    -manny from cali

  14. Philip
    October 30, 2013 at 5:20 AM

    Great Article, well researched, as some of these cars are now almost 20years old, is there any way I can establish what the original engine configuration was. Reason for this is I bought mine with destoyed LSD unit and all the boxes advertised looked slightly differnet to the one in the car so I have a small challenge , There are no markings on the box and the car is a JDM import

    • Philip
      October 30, 2013 at 6:10 AM

      Ok I am getting there, it seems my car has S54 tranny but it also came with a lsd unit!? unless that was an aftermaket mod , guess ill have to figure out how to convert to E153tranny as this little car is to become a track racer

      • November 1, 2013 at 11:19 AM

        The S54 came with an LSD on the Red Top BEAMS models. If you have one its most likely aftermarket. An E153 on an NA motor is not a good idea. Its not geared correctly and adds a lot of weight if you don’t need the extra strength.

  15. Philip
    March 28, 2014 at 3:25 AM

    Hi Mark, I have a 3SGTE turbo motor in my MR2, Installed by who knows, problem is I cannot figure out if this unit has hydraulic lifters /Underbucket shimms, there is definately no shimms on top of the buckets. Are you aware of any 3S engine with this kind of valve config. Big tappet noise at startup which dies down after a while. I personally suspect a hydraulic lifter failing…..

  1. February 17, 2010 at 1:33 AM
  2. June 28, 2011 at 12:05 AM

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